Day 2 in the DRC

I’ve just settled into my hotel room tonight.
The program portion of the trip officially ends tomorrow with a visit to the new IMA World Health office in Goma, DRC.

After a quick morning visit, I travel back over the border into Rwanda via SUV and catch a plane back to Tanzania for my attempt to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro.

As I sit here, I can’t help but reflect on my past couple days in the DRC.

It’s been such a mix of emotions. Nothing is simple and there seems to be an underlying element of danger like I haven’t seen before.

Of course, this is the first time I’ve traveled to this part of the world. For others who make this type of journey frequently I may be stating the obvious.

But for those of you who wonder what it’s like, let me tell you about a couple stops we made in the past while traveling through the South Kivu province.

We visited at a memorial where 20 Congolese women were buried alive during one of the recent civil wars. They were buried alive out of retaliation for a successful attack by the local militia.

I stopped at a Congolese prison where I saw a well-worn book produced by the USHINDI

program, outlining the rights of women and detailing the definition of rape. It had notes written on the cover and was obviously in use.

However, I later found out that the same guards gave a colleague of mine several reasons why it’s ok to rape women during a recent interview.

While visiting the Kibunda medical center in a rural part of the DRC I met a man named Kichanda Elis who was holding his baby daughter, Baraka. He was as proud as he could be to show her off for a photo. (It’s posted above) It was obvious to me how much he cared for her, we held a fairly long meeting outside the center and he held her the whole time. He was taking care of her that day.

The trip was filled with contradiction. But as I met the staff and volunteers who work in the USHINDI program I came to realize the challenge they are facing, one that will take time to overcome. They are attempting to sensitize a culture to the rights of women - they are attempting culture change.

The numbers are beginning to show some change. In some areas, the number of reported attacks are on the incline. Is this because more women are being attacked? No, there are more women who feel they can report the attack.

In many domestic cases, when a woman is attacked her family will attempt to have her marry the attacker or work out a financial settlement. It generally isn’t something that is announced to the community.

Women are beginning to speak out. Through the program they are learning to read, learning new skills to help them economically and they are supporting one another through community groups.

The empowerment of women in the Eastern provinces of the DRC is starting to spread and it’s happening through the medical centers operating under the USHINDI program.

It’s happening because of the dedicated staff and volunteers of IMA and our implementing partners.

IMA helps set the stage, but they are the ones on the ground every day counseling women, answering questions in the community and doing the little things to push this movement forward.

The horror stories are out there, but it’s their image – one of hope- that I will keep with me as I leave the country tomorrow.

Thoughts in the DRC

After traveling for several days we've arrived at the town of Mwenga in the DRC. We crossed the length of Lake Kivu by boat (a seven-hour ride) and drove five hours from Bukavu on a winding road through beautiful mountains.

I've seen such a variety of lanscapes during this trip. The Serengeti plain was dry and flat, Dar es Salaam had a tropical feel on the Indian Ocean, and now I see impressive mountains in the DRC.

My room tonight is basic. No running water or electricity... and no internet.

How am I posting this message? Believe it or not my Blackberry still works!

It's funny, I've been able to catch up on email while sitting in the dark listening to the rain hit the tin roof of my hotel room.

We've kept a fast pace all trip, but tonight has been very good. I was able to catch up on some much needed sleep. I want to make sure I'm ready when my focus shifts to Mt. Kilimanjaro in a few days.

The sun is just about up and I'm starting to hear people stirring outside - waking to start the day.

Yesterday we visited the staff for the USHINDI project in the mwenga office and today we're planning to visit two health centers in the area.

USHINDI is a US government funded project to help women (and men) in this area who are surivors of rape.

This has been a conflict area for quite some time and one instrument of war is mass rape.

IMA works with several strong partners on the ground to give women a chance to stabilize their life after an attack and improve their standing in their village.

They are given a safe place to live, medical treatment, counseling and are provided access to a lawyer to advise them of their rights and be with them as they police and local legal process.

I'll have more later. I won't be able to show the faces of the women I talk to today... there is a real fear of reprisal. However, I will be able to tell you their stories.

They are stories of tragedy that will make you shake your head in disbelief. But more importantly they are stories of women with an incredible will to live and overcome that tragedy.

With the help of IMA and our partners here in the DRC they are able to come back to their village with the ability to read and the skills to start a new trade so they can support themselves.

I frequently have people ask me what we do at IMA and I have a difficult time summarizing it into a 30 second conversation.

I leave for the Democratic Republic of Congo to visit the USHINDI program in a couple hours so this may be the last post for a few days.

I’m not sure of the internet access once I cross the border, so check back when you can.

I’ll do my best to keep up with the posts!

Melts Like Ice

“It melts like ice with the right treatment.” says Dr. Charles Majinge, the Director General of Bugando Medical Center.

Dr. Majinge and his staff sat with us today to discuss the IMA supported Burkitt’s Lymphoma program in his hospital.

This life saving treatment is something IMA helps provide to the children who pass through the wards of Bugando. For the poor, the treatment is free.

I saw this first hand when I took a walk through the halls of the hospital. I met a quiet little girl named Veronica. She is 9 years old and she was showing the signs of Burkitt’s. She had a large tumor on the right side of her face.

She has been in the hospital for a month getting chemotherapy treatment so I’m not sure what it looked like when she first arrived. But, according to the nurse she has improved greatly.

In Veronica’s case the tumor will “melt” away as it has for nearly 2000 children at Bugando Hospital since 2002. All of this was done with support from IMA World Health.

I’ve attached a photo of Veronica, her little sister Neema and her mother Lucia. They are in a difficult situation; Lucia is a single mother raising her children on her own. They don’t have the means to pay for medical treatment like this on their own.

Fortunately, they have help from donors like many of you and the support of IMA. Remember, when you donate to the Burkitt’s Lymphoma program - you are changing lives in a major way.

Tonight I’m posting from Dar es Salaam on the Indian Ocean. I know the water is nearby, but I haven’t been able to see it yet. I can’t wait until sunrise!

New Cervical Cancer Program

Today we stopped by Shirati Mennonite Hospital, a hospital IMA supports in the Northwestern region of Tanzania.

We were able to review an IMA supported Care and Treatment Center for people who have tested HIV positive and visited the area where children are treated for Burkitt’s Lymphoma. I’ll have more to share on that at a later date.

I’m so impressed with the people running the hospital – the doctors, nurses and administrators who spend their days helping people in their hour of need.

IMA supports the hospital in different ways depending on the program, but mostly IMA provides technical assistance, medical supplies and training to help make the hospital more effective and efficient.

Today the Bishop of the hospital called a press conference to announce the start of a new IMA supported cervical cancer program.

In Tanzania, when a woman is diagnosed with cervical cancer there is only a 30-percent chance she will survive. This can be directly attributed to late diagnosis and late care from a health-care provider. To make matters worse, it is the most prevalent cancer among women in the country.

As we walked in the door, I saw a large group of women waiting for the screening process to begin.

I’ve posted a photo of IMA Program Officer Sister Margaret Ishengoma as she tells them what to expect during the exam.

We’re covering a lot of ground on this trip, but today marks the beginning of another relationship between IMA and Shirati Mennonite Hospital. It’s a relationship that will save the lives of women in Tanzania for years to come.

I realize these posts aren't about climbing Kilimanjaro. I don't start up the mountain until Sept 2nd, between now and then I'll be making more site visits to see IMA's work in the field.

Tomorrow night I fly to Dar es Salaam, then the next stop is Goma in the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Stay with me, this trip is about more than climbing a mountain. It always has been.

Wait, is that a Wild Giraffe?

This has to be a quick post. I’m not sure how long I’ll have my internet access tonight and I’m told it will be questionable for the next couple of days.

Here is the recap from the day. We drove to Dareda hospital where we met doctors and medical professionals working with us in the AIDS Relief program.

I also met a woman named Sophia who has been HIV positive since 2003 and has fallen on hard times in the past two months. She is currently getting treatment at Dareda through the IMA supported program.

Her story is compelling and deserves much more time than I have tonight. I’ll share that with you when I return from this trip.

However, I can share my favorite photo from the drive today.

At the end of the day, just before we made it back to our hotel our group came across a wild giraffe, actually I think we saw a total of five.

This guy was fairly close and he didn’t seem alarmed that we stopped to take some photos. He was unfazed as he kept snacking on the tree.

Tomorrow is a long drive day, but we will be crossing the Serengeti Park so I have a feeling my next post will showcase more photos of wild animals.

Until next time…

Church in Tanzania

Today was fairly low key.

I’m traveling with a diverse group that includes members of the IMA Board of Directors as well as partners and friends of IMA. We’ve all come together to see IMA’s work in the field and we have a busy schedule ahead of us, but today was a day of rest.

I decided to join Ken Kovacs a pastor with Catonsville Presbyterian Church in Baltimore on an excursion to attend church. Catonsville Presbyterian has been a long time friend of IMA, supporting our Safe Motherhood Kit ™ and IMA Medicine Box programs.

Ken and I eventually found The Evangelical Lutheran Church in Tanzania. The early service was running a little late so Ken and I situated ourselves near the back entrance to the church so we could hear a little better.

I’m a photographer at heart so I brought my camera along hoping they wouldn’t mind if I took a few photos.

That’s about the time when we met Francis and his family. He is a driver for an organization based in Arusha and he greeted us with a handshake and a smile. He invited us to sit with him during the service, it was a friendly congregation but it always feels better to “know” someone when you attend a church for the first time. Even if you did just meet him!

The service was delivered in Swahili, but I could still follow along. I don’t know Swahili - but I bet I could pick out the Lord’s Prayer in most languages.

His children, Doreen and Dennis loved to have their photo taken. I was trying to take my photos without bothering anyone when I noticed Doreen and Dennis bowing in prayer with their father.

This looked like a wonderful moment so I decided to take it – I fired off a couple frames.

The sound of the camera set off a case of the giggles in the kids which Francis quickly got back under control.

The service wasn’t interrupted, no harm - no foul, but it did end up being my favorite photo of the day.

Take a look and let me know what you think.

Politics at 35,000 feet

It’s official - I’m in Tanzania!

The trip was long, but there are no issues to report. The highlight of the flight was sitting beside a nice couple from Germany on their way to Tanzania to take a safari. We talked about traveling, politics, families, social issues and economics.

We had time to kill. Actually, we had more than 8 hours to kill before landing in Arusha.

I appreciate the conversation – not because it was a time filler- but because of their perspective on the culture in the US.

I enjoy traveling for many different reasons, but I most enjoy the chance to see the US… to see my culture from a different point of view.

It’s not an easy thing to do when you get into the routine of daily life. The gas station attendant would probably look at me a little funny if I asked for their thoughts on the economy and how to fix it.

I certainly lucked out meeting my new friends. We didn’t agree on everything but we worked out most of the problems in the US - and a few in Germany- in one 8-hour flight.

If only it could be that easy!

I hope they enjoy their safari and I hope they enjoy reading this post. They certainly made the last leg of a long flight fly by.

Pun intended.

One Day Away!

I’m told it will take about 32 hours to travel from my front to Dar es Salaam, the capital of Tanzania and the first stop on my three week trip through southern Africa.

This blog is dedicated to documenting my attempt to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro but the real reason for this trip is to document IMA’s work in the field.

I’ll be carrying my notepad, camera and video camera to bring back valuable information for our donors and the website.

A lot of people donate their hard-earned money to support IMA and this type of trip will let them know just where it is going. It’s important for people to see the type of impact they can make with their donation.

And we’re very serious about stretching the dollar.

That’s probably one of the reasons Forbes picked us as one of the most efficient non-profits in the United States for three years in a row.

While in Tanzania I’ll see our Burkitt’s Lymphoma program in action, our HIV/AIDS program and I’ll get to see the start of a new cervical cancer program at the Shirati Mennonite Hospital.

Then I’ll go to the Democratic Republic of Congo, where I’ll see safe houses in the USHINDI program, a USAID-funded program to support survivors of mass rape in the eastern provinces of North and South Kivu. Women are given a safe place to stay where they can get counseling, medical treatment and legal assistance to help bring justice to their attackers.

It will be a whirlwind trip and I'll cover a lot of ground before taking my first step on the mountain.

All of these programs are necessary and effective… and I can’t wait to see them in person.

What about IMA’s BL Program?

Until now, I’ve had some fun with this blog. It’s been about boots, blisters and media coverage. But now, I’d like to tell you about the important work being done in Tanzania. Let me tell you the real reason I’m attempting to make this climb – Burkitt’s lymphoma.

Burkitt’s lymphoma is an aggressive childhood cancer that usually affects children between the ages of 3-14 years old. In most cases, it appears as a fast growing facial tumor but it can also appear in the abdomen and extremities.

If left untreated – it can be fatal.

It’s most prevalent in areas of Africa where malaria is common. I’m told there is a connection between the Epstein-Barr virus and Burkitt’s but I’m in the communications department – I'm not a doctor. I’ll leave that explanation to more qualified people.

Here is what I do know.

When properly treated, a child can make a dramatic recovery. In many cases, parents bring their children to the clinic thinking the child will never make it home. They are listless, unable to eat and hardly move.

After one treatment, the child will start showing improvement and in some cases doctors will see the tumor reduce in size in just a couple hours.

A child typically needs 6 treatments to complete a cycle and here is the amazing part – each treatment averages $150.

It’s amazing to me to think that a child can be successfully treated at such a minimal cost.
IMA does great work every day - but this program stands out to me.

I have two energetic boys and I think the world of them. I can’t imagine being in those parent’s shoes- knowing there is a successful treatment for their child but not having the means to provide it for them.

Every child with cancer deserves a chance to live.

And that’s what this program does - every day.

Cowboy boots and TV cameras

Speaking of feet, I made my first TV appearance for this campaign over the weekend. Honestly, I’m more comfortable on the other side of the camera but my boys were excited about all the fuss.

My youngest son, Jake, was so excited that he had to put on his favorite cowboy boots while we played with a soccer ball before my training hike Saturday.

He came really close to putting on a blue clip-on tie too. Yes, my boy has eclectic taste in clothes.

Thank you to Nava and Fox 43 in York, Pa for helping me spread the word about this climb and the campaign to raise funds for our Burkitt’s Lymphoma program.

Remember, if you’d like to support this climb and the Burkitt’s program you can donate via a secure server here.

Good fitting shoes

I’ve never been very good at breaking in new boots. I’ve heard of so many different ways to do it but never had much success. I always end up adding extra socks and hope the blisters don’t get too big before break in the boots.

I knew I was in trouble a couple months ago when my old hiking boots started to fall apart. I had them for 5 years and they were great.

Sore feet are something I don’t want to deal with when I’m on the side of the mountain. That could make or break the trip.

So I came up with a plan, I’d go find the exact same boots I bought before. They should fit the same way, right?

Wrong, I’ve been hiking in them for more than a month and they still start to rub after a couple hours.

I have matching blisters on the inside of each heel from my current pair. They haven’t cost me time while training, but they are starting to look bad as you can see by the photo.

I have a few more weeks to figure this out. Does anyone have any advice?

Training Hike - Michaux State Forest

This week I decided to change things up a bit. I added a little more weight to my pack and hit the mountains west of Gettysburg in search of hills.

Up until now, my training has consisted of long road hikes. This is good for endurance but not so great when it comes to climbing a steep incline.

I quickly found that out when I started up my first incline, but I kept telling my self... slow and steady wins the race. I knew I’d finish it was just a matter of time.

I started at Pole Steeple near Michaux State Forest; it was a good warm up for the day. From there I picked up a portion of the Appalachian Trail until I reached a trail called Sunset Rocks.

That’s where it started to get interesting.

Sunset Rocks is a beautiful place to hike but you have to climb about a quarter mile at a very steep grade before you hit level ground again. I’ve hiked it before but not after a long hike - and never with an extra 25-30 pounds on my back.

But hey, if it was easy I wouldn’t improve - right?

Either way, I made it to the top - grabbed a drink of water and a granola bar and turned back down the hill toward the car.

Normally, I’d stay for a while and enjoy the view but it seems like there are a million loose ends to tie up before I leave for Africa.

I’m excited about this trip, but the reality of it is beginning to set in.

Only 16 days until I board the plane!