The time had finally arrived. I woke up on time and hit the trail with Ernest at midnight. Everything was going as planned.
As I started the night was crystal clear and filled with stars. There was a half moon in the sky providing some light – my spirits were high.
Ernest and I kept a slow pace and started the ascent. I was getting winded but that was to be expected – I was starting strong.
After about an hour, Ernest stopped for a break. This was unusual, he hadn’t stopped for a break on any of the earlier hikes.
I didn’t think too much about it, I needed the rest so we just stood there in the dark catching our breath.
I noticed that the sky was starting to darken, there were fewer stars in the sky and the wind was starting to pick up.
I tightened my hood on my jacket and continued on with the words from Seamus ringing in the back of my mind… keep going.
Another 20 minutes passed and Ernest stopped for another break.
This was very unusual. I knew something must be wrong.
I shined my light on him and saw a pained look on his face. Despite the cold weather he was sweating profusely and taking quick short breaths.
He told me he may have to go back down - he was getting sick from the altitude.
Altitude sickness can get anyone at any time, no matter of their fitness level.
I told him I would go back down with him.
“No problem” I said. I’ll attempt it again later in the day. I didn’t want to leave him on his own and I wasn’t particularly excited at the thought of being alone on the side of the mountain.
He refused and changed his mind - picking up his pack and starting up the mountain. He was going to try it again.
I followed along but after another 20 minutes he sat down again.
“I’m sorry, sorry, sorry” he said.
“I have to go back down.”
“You go, and I’ll send Abraham to take you to the top”
I agreed and watched him walk back down in to the darkness toward Kibo.
There I was, sitting in the scree wondering what I had gotten myself into. I had two choices, I could ignore Ernest and go back down or I could keep going.
After a couple minutes I decided to keep going.
I eventually caught up with another guide making his way to the top. I greeting him in swalhili and he asked me in English if I was ok.
I told him what had happened and asked if I could fall in with him and climb with him until Abraham made his way up the mountain.
He agreed and off we went.
The guide’s name was Fred and he was charged with taking Bill, a man from Connecticut up the mountain. Their pace was slow, and that suited me just fine.
I was happy to be able to concentrate on my own climb. I put myself on autopilot, doing my best to keep my mind on other things.
I thought of my wife. In my mind, I replayed all the highlights we’ve had together… the day I met her, our wedding day, both days she told me she was pregnant with our boys.
Those images kept me warm even though my hands were going numb. I could feel the wind picking up, it was blowing bits of rock through the air like a large cold sand blaster rolling down the mountain.
At that moment, I realized there was no sneaking upon Kili. It knew I was here and wasn’t going to make it easy for me.
I walked with Fred and Bill for an hour before I heard someone yell my name over the wind.
“Mr. Chris!”
Abraham had found me. He made his way over to me and asked if I was ok.
“Follow me to the top Mr. Chris”
He was very confident but I had my doubts. I was tired, cold and ready to stop – I sat down for the first time.
“Don’t sit, you’ll freeze” said Abraham.
“Pulli Pulli, let’s go”
I got up and continued the climb going slower than ever - but I was still moving.
I had been battling the loose rock, cold, wind and my own doubts for about 5 hours before I started to see a little light on the horizon.
The sun was starting to rise.
At that moment I felt a charge of energy and my mood began to improve.
But Kili had one more trick in store for me. After fighting the loose rock for hours there was a final stretch of boulders I needed to climb over before reaching Gilman’s Point.
My legs were tired and my lungs were burning but with Abraham coaxing me on I was able to make it to Gilman’s Point by 5:30am. (18,651 feet) I had spent 5 hours and 30 minutes on that incline. Despite losing my guide, spending time alone and wondering if/when I’d find the second guide – I had made it.
By that time the sun was bright in the sky and I knew the trip to Uhuru wouldn’t be as difficult. I had been told there would be some inclines but nothing like the climb to Gilman’s Point.
I slowed my pace so I could take in the scenery. To my right was the crater, a vast open space in the top of the mountain filled with burnt red looking soil. Beyond the crater was the South Glacier and to my left was the North Glacier.
I had seen the North Glacier from Kibo but it had a different look as I walked so closely to it. I could see the details in the ice, the dirt hat had been caught in the permanent freeze for years. The glaciers were sitting like massive frozen spectators watching hikers scurry by for their photo opps at Uhuru peak.
I felt like a visitor in their home. They have been there for hundreds of years and I would only be there for an hour.
I made it across to Uhuru point at 7:30 am. I had officially made it to the highest point in Africa.
An odd feeling of peace, exhaustion and satisfaction washed over me as I got to the sign.
I decided to sit down for a couple minutes and take in the scenery.
No comments:
Post a Comment